Saturday, April 27, 2013
When I look back on my surfing past it makes me grateful for all the good times and good friends. It started in 1972 when I was in the Navy. My ship (USS Vancouver) was returning to our home port in San Diego. I was still a young man of 19 years. Back then the ships would stop in Pearl to give the crews some rest and relaxation after completing a deployment. It was my first time in Hawaii and I thought I'd gone to heaven.
Me, Willie Hunt, and Tom Guiger were good friends. We decided to go down to Waikiki Beach. I was very keen on going surfing. Willie and Tom were willing to go along, so off we went. It turned out that the Armed Forces had a military reservation (Fort Derussy) right on the beach. They rented surfboards, so we each got one. It was a beautiful day. I'll never forget it. The water was so clean and warm. After about and hour of goofing around I managed to catch my first wave. It wasn't the prettiest ride, but I was thrilled. That's how it started.
When I got back to San Diego I got my own board. I lived in Imperial Beach and that places gets some really good waves.
Life took a turn for the better. I met a beautiful women. When I say beautiful I mean it in every sense. She made me want to live again. Julie and I have been together for a little over 2 years now. I couldn't be happier and she accepts the surfer in me. Whenever there is surf she is there with me. It's great to have a supportive partner and she takes great pictures as well. I'm very thankful for her and all the people that have supported me over the years.