Saturday, April 27, 2013

Early Days

When I look back on my surfing past it makes me grateful for all the good times and good friends.  It started in 1972 when I was in the Navy.  My ship (USS Vancouver) was returning to our home port in San Diego.  I was still a young man of 19 years.  Back then the ships would stop in Pearl to give the crews some rest and relaxation after completing a deployment.  It was my first time in Hawaii and I thought I'd gone to heaven.

Me, Willie Hunt, and Tom Guiger were good friends.  We decided to go down to Waikiki Beach.  I was very keen on going surfing.  Willie and Tom were willing to go along, so off we went.  It turned out that the Armed Forces had a military reservation (Fort Derussy) right on the beach.  They rented surfboards, so we each got one.  It was a beautiful day.  I'll never forget it.  The water was so clean and warm.  After about and hour of goofing around I managed to catch my first wave.  It wasn't the prettiest ride, but I was thrilled.  That's how it started.

When I got back to San Diego I got my own board.  I lived in Imperial Beach and that places gets some really good waves.

Life took a turn for the better.  I met a beautiful women.  When I say beautiful I mean it in every sense.  She made me want to live again.  Julie and I have been together for a little over 2 years now.  I couldn't be happier and she accepts the surfer in me.  Whenever there is surf she is there with me.  It's great to have a supportive partner and she takes great pictures as well.  I'm very thankful for her and all the people that have supported me over the years.

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