Saturday, April 27, 2013
When I look back on my surfing past it makes me grateful for all the good times and good friends. It started in 1972 when I was in the Navy. My ship (USS Vancouver) was returning to our home port in San Diego. I was still a young man of 19 years. Back then the ships would stop in Pearl to give the crews some rest and relaxation after completing a deployment. It was my first time in Hawaii and I thought I'd gone to heaven.
Me, Willie Hunt, and Tom Guiger were good friends. We decided to go down to Waikiki Beach. I was very keen on going surfing. Willie and Tom were willing to go along, so off we went. It turned out that the Armed Forces had a military reservation (Fort Derussy) right on the beach. They rented surfboards, so we each got one. It was a beautiful day. I'll never forget it. The water was so clean and warm. After about and hour of goofing around I managed to catch my first wave. It wasn't the prettiest ride, but I was thrilled. That's how it started.
When I got back to San Diego I got my own board. I lived in Imperial Beach and that places gets some really good waves.
Life took a turn for the better. I met a beautiful women. When I say beautiful I mean it in every sense. She made me want to live again. Julie and I have been together for a little over 2 years now. I couldn't be happier and she accepts the surfer in me. Whenever there is surf she is there with me. It's great to have a supportive partner and she takes great pictures as well. I'm very thankful for her and all the people that have supported me over the years.
Friday, April 19, 2013
Wednesday, April 17, 2013
Friday, April 12, 2013
Monday, April 8, 2013
I made this from some redwood I had. I also used redwood for the nose and tail pieces. It's easy to work and it's light. I'd plan to use some burl that I got from Mike Skinner. Because the pivot fin on this board is kinda small I didn't want to waste 1/2 the burl and not be able to book match it. I'll save it for another project. I'm doing a single lam of 4 oz on each side. It'll get another layer when I glass it to the board.