Figuring out how big to make the blunt was easy. It's going to be the same as the tail width. They should finish out at 6-1/2". That's not too big. I'm going to provide some more blocking and belt sand blend it. No funky nose or tail trim pieces on this one. 
I let the frame dry overnight and popped it out of the jig. The stop blocks and finger blocks were removed and the bottom panel is aligned in the jig. Next, I put the frame on the bottom panel and trace around it leaving it a little proud. Then I cut the excess. I also mark the nose, tail and ribs. Next comes the gorilla glue and then the frame is re-installed. I use a combination of weight and clamps to get a snug fit and maximum contact. This will dry overnight.
I traced the outline and hot glued the shims at the end of the ribs and in between them too. Next the ribs get put back in and one more test fit. Finally, the nose piece, tail piece and ribs are glued to the spar. The stringers are friction fit to keep everything where it's suppose to be.
I set the spar, then milled and installed the support blocking. The blocking goes under each rib and between the ribs unless it's on the flats. The nose and tail get support blocking also. I haven't installed the shims yet but, I put a few out so you could see where they'd go. The spar is held in place by finger blocking on the support blocking and stop blocks in the flats. That'll get removed after the ribs and stringers are glued to the spar. I'll update the final set-up tomorrow after the shims are in place.
It needed a light filler coat to make it right. All I need to do is level it and wet sand. I'm planning to clear coated the board after the blunt nose is off the bench top. The warm weather we're having is making this all possible.