I've been surfing a lot more lately. It's more fun than building boards for me but, I'm also getting better ideas. The waves here in Ormond Beach are peaky fast beach breakers. The rides are pretty fast and sometimes long. Anyways, there are a couple of things that make huge differences for me. The first is the volume of the board. A couple of my boards have too much buoyancy for me. What happens is the nose will flap up and down if I'm too far back. It's a little touchy if there isn't much nose rocker.
My favorite board for bigger days is a 9' that's 2-5/8" thick. It's fast and turns well. The rails are slightly pinched and the fin set-up is 2+1. I took out my shorter quad fish but, I didn't have as much fun with it. It felt just a little bit corky. Your results may vary.
