patience, oh crap

I never lived in a place that the waves were so ....... (fill-in). It's pitiful right now. We had wild lumpy brutal close out waves a few day ago. I've been going out on a boogie board, that's right a boogie board. The water feels great but the waves are dumpers. If you're lucky you get a few seconds of unbroken faces and then crunch. Please, PLEASE..... I need some waves.

what you need

Having lived and surfed here for awhile. I found out a couple things. The waves here are pretty fast and real pitchy. They're a lot different than the waves in Imperial Beach that I learned on.  You need a fast board, otherwise you'll be playing in the foam. I' ve made some adjustments and got some faster boards. All that I know is faster is better, here anyways. The other thing that helps a lot is having a board that turns quickly. Some people like thrusters, others like quads. I like quads. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8x8l107miLM