looking back

I have been fortunate to have owned and ridden lots of boards when I lived in CA. One of my favorites was a G&S 7' 2" egg. It was a good design and was easy to surf. The only times I used my longboard was when the surf was small. I still like to ride longboards on small mushy days. Now, I'm riding shorter boards and looking forward to seeing where this takes me. I don't see myself building any boards until next year.  I'm going to design a 7'2" fish with tapered rails and quad set-up.

patience, oh crap

I never lived in a place that the waves were so ....... (fill-in). It's pitiful right now. We had wild lumpy brutal close out waves a few day ago. I've been going out on a boogie board, that's right a boogie board. The water feels great but the waves are dumpers. If you're lucky you get a few seconds of unbroken faces and then crunch. Please, PLEASE..... I need some waves.

what you need

Having lived and surfed here for awhile. I found out a couple things. The waves here are pretty fast and real pitchy. They're a lot different than the waves in Imperial Beach that I learned on.  You need a fast board, otherwise you'll be playing in the foam. I' ve made some adjustments and got some faster boards. All that I know is faster is better, here anyways. The other thing that helps a lot is having a board that turns quickly. Some people like thrusters, others like quads. I like quads. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8x8l107miLM

SUP's at the beach

We had some beautiful weather today. I thought it'd be fun to take the SUP's down since the waves were small and the wind was blowing off shore. The wind was so strong that catching waves with the 12' er was impossible for me. It's got a big nose.

I wound up taking out the 10' er and surfed it without the paddle. Fun board. It felt great to get back in the water. Big thanks to my girlfriend Julie for the great pictures.

Balsa Cedar Pine board

I got this board from my friend Ron Ferrer. He's a good guy and good HWS builder. THe board is an evo with the regular longboard spar. It's super light and feels strong. I can't wait to take it out and see how it goes.

Beach break.. here

The waves yesterday were walled up and fast. The off shore wind made it all possible. It's so much fun to fly thru the sections and transition to the reform and slide on that too. ANyways,, I've surfed my wood boards and I've surfed my foam quad. The foamy is a lot more fun. It's high performance and it gets up and goes just a little faster which makes a huge difference for me.

THere are times and places where wood would be a better choice but, it's not the better choice for here. The wood can be a lot of fun when it's high tide and mushy. All I can say about that is, I'm waiting for that day. I've got a couple balsa/pine/cedar evo boards from Ron Ferrer and I'm looking forward to testing them. They are about the same weight as my foamy so, it should be interesting. BTW- there are lots of places (sunset beach, nc) where the wood is the better choice.

Little Wednesday

We had some fun surf the day before Thanksgiving. It was fun and the kids were tearing it up.