Summer fun

I've been having a fun summer of seeing family, friends and surfing.  There hasn't been anytime to build new boards but, I have been getting the wood ones out when the conditions are right.  I still have to finish my blunt nose longboard and have some ideas for new boards.

Riding the fish.

I took out my 8' fish and got some fun rides.  The waves were kinda small.  The board worked good and it has plenty of glide to stay with the mushy conditions.  There were a lot of curious people asking me questions and giving compliments.  It's so much fun to take out the wood ones.

Ridin' the balsa cedar evo

I finally got a good day to take this one out.  The wind was blowing off shore all day and the waves were small but, there were some set waves rolling thru every so often.  This is a 9' evo that Ron Ferrer built before he went to Hawaii.  It's light and that made it easy to swing around.  I liked the way it turned with that thin pivot fin.  It made it's way down the line with good speed.  I really enjoyed the session and would like to take it out again when the waves are bigger.

We got waves.

Tropical Depression Beryl kicked up some 10'ers.  Fun to watch from the beach.  It was too wild to surf and only a couple of guys went out.  BOth of them got worked.  I'm looking forward to the next tropical depression and getting some waves before it gets crazy.

looking back

I have been fortunate to have owned and ridden lots of boards when I lived in CA. One of my favorites was a G&S 7' 2" egg. It was a good design and was easy to surf. The only times I used my longboard was when the surf was small. I still like to ride longboards on small mushy days. Now, I'm riding shorter boards and looking forward to seeing where this takes me. I don't see myself building any boards until next year.  I'm going to design a 7'2" fish with tapered rails and quad set-up.

patience, oh crap

I never lived in a place that the waves were so ....... (fill-in). It's pitiful right now. We had wild lumpy brutal close out waves a few day ago. I've been going out on a boogie board, that's right a boogie board. The water feels great but the waves are dumpers. If you're lucky you get a few seconds of unbroken faces and then crunch. Please, PLEASE..... I need some waves.

what you need

Having lived and surfed here for awhile. I found out a couple things. The waves here are pretty fast and real pitchy. They're a lot different than the waves in Imperial Beach that I learned on.  You need a fast board, otherwise you'll be playing in the foam. I' ve made some adjustments and got some faster boards. All that I know is faster is better, here anyways. The other thing that helps a lot is having a board that turns quickly. Some people like thrusters, others like quads. I like quads. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8x8l107miLM